Waves occur because:
Waves occur because:
A surface is disturbed
The moon has a gravitational force
The sun has gravitational force
There are density differences
Question 2When waves propagate, which of the following is a true statement?
Both the energy and the medium is transferred
Only the medium is transferred
Only the energy is transferred
Neither energy nor medium is transferred
Question 3The type of motion that characterizes ocean waves is
Shear
Tensional
Retrograde
Oscillatory
Question 4The horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs is referred to as:
Wave height
Wavelength
Wave base
Period
Question 5The factor that is limiting to wave height is/are:
Fetch
Duration of wind
Velocity of wind
Tides
Question 6A temporary elevation of sea level caused by friction is known as:
Rip currents
Longshore currents
Setup
Littoral transport
Question 7The depth of influence for an ocean wave is equal to:
One half its wavelength
Two times its wavelength
One half its wave base
Two times its wave base
Question 8The area where waves break at the coast is known as the:
Undertow
Breakers
Surf zone
Littoral zone
Question 9Whitecaps are an example of:
Swell waves
Rip currents
Longshore current
Sea waves
Question 10Wave energy is concentrated in___________________ and dissipated in______________________.
Embayments; headland areas
Headland areas; embayments
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